Lipid Monolayer on Cell Surface Protein Templates Functional Extracellular Lipid Assembly.

When the ancestors of men moved from aquatic habitats to the drylands, their evolutionary strategy to restrict water loss is to seal the skin surface with lipids. It is unknown how these rigid ceramide-dominated lipids with densely packed chains squeeze through narrow extracellular spaces and how they assemble into their complex multilamellar architecture. Here it is shown that the human corneocyte lipid envelope, a monolayer of ultralong covalently bound lipids on the cell surface protein, templates the functional barrier assembly by partly fluidizing and rearranging the free extracellular lipids in its vicinity during the sculpting of a functional skin lipid barrier. The lipid envelope also maintains the fluidity of the extracellular lipids during mechanical stress. This local lipid fluidization does not compromise the permeability barrier. The results provide new testable hypotheses about epidermal homeostasis and the pathophysiology underlying diseases with impaired lipid binding to corneocytes, such as congenital ichthyosis. In a broader sense, this lipoprotein-mediated fluidization of rigid (sphingo)lipid patches may also be relevant to lipid rafts and cellular signaling events and inspire new functional materials.

Effects of imidazolium ionic liquids on skin barrier lipids - Perspectives for drug delivery.

Ionic liquids (ILs) have great potential to facilitate transdermal and topical drug delivery. Here, we investigated the mechanism of action of amphiphilic ILs 1-methyl-3-octylimidazolium bromide (C8MIM) and 3-dodecyl-1-methylimidazolium bromide (C12MIM) in skin barrier lipid models in comparison to their complex effects in human skin. C8MIM incorporated in a skin lipid model was a better permeation enhancer than C12MIM for water and model drugs, theophylline and diclofenac. Solid state 2H NMR and X-ray diffraction indicated that both ILs prefer the cholesterol-rich regions in skin lipids without significantly perturbing their lamellar arrangement and that C8MIM induces the formation of an isotropic lipid phase to a greater extent compared to C12MIM. C12MIM applied topically to the lipid model or human skin as a pretreatment was more potent than C8MIM. When co-applied with the drugs to human skin, aqueous C12MIM was more potent than C8MIM in enhancing theophylline permeation, but neither IL affected (even decreased) diclofenac permeation. Thus, the IL's ability to permeabilize skin lipid barrier is strongly modulated by its ability to reach the site of action and its interactions with drug and solvent. Such an interplay is far from trivial and requires detailed investigation to realize the full potential of ILs.

Both Nitro Groups Are Essential for High Antitubercular Activity of 3,5-Dinitrobenzylsulfanyl Tetrazoles and 1,3,4-Oxadiazoles through the Deazaflavin-Dependent Nitroreductase Activation Pathway.

3,5-Dinitrobenzylsulfanyl tetrazoles and 1,3,4-oxadiazoles, previously identified as having high in vitro activities against both replicating and nonreplicating mycobacteria and favorable cytotoxicity and genotoxicity profiles were investigated. First we demonstrated that these compounds act in a deazaflavin-dependent nitroreduction pathway and thus require a nitro group for their activity. Second, we confirmed the necessity of both nitro groups for antimycobacterial activity through extensive structure-activity relationship studies using 32 structural types of analogues, each in a five-membered series. Only the analogues with shifted nitro groups, namely, 2,5-dinitrobenzylsulfanyl oxadiazoles and tetrazoles, maintained high antimycobacterial activity but in this case mainly as a result of DprE1 inhibition. However, these analogues also showed increased toxicity to the mammalian cell line. Thus, both nitro groups in 3,5-dinitrobenzylsulfanyl-containing antimycobacterial agents remain essential for their high efficacy, and further efforts should be directed at finding ways to address the possible toxicity and solubility issues, for example, by targeted delivery.

Time-Dependent Differences in the Effects of Oleic Acid and Oleyl Alcohol on the Human Skin Barrier.

Oleic acid and oleyl alcohol are commonly used permeation and penetration enhancers to facilitate topical drug delivery. Here, we aimed to better understand the mechanism of their enhancing effects in terms of their interactions with the human skin barrier using diclofenac diethylamine (DIC-DEA), a nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug for topical pain management. Oleic acid promoted DIC-DEA permeation through ex vivo human skin more rapidly than oleyl alcohol (both applied at 0.75%) due to fluidization of stratum corneum lipids as revealed by infrared spectroscopy. After 12 h, the effect of these enhancers on DIC-DEA permeation leveled off, fluidization was no longer evident, and skin permeabilization was mainly due to the formation of fluid enhancer-rich domains. Contrary to oleyl alcohol, oleic acid adversely affected two indicators of the skin barrier integrity, transepidermal water loss and skin electrical impedance. The content of oleyl alcohol in the stratum corneum was lower than that of oleic acid (even 12 h after the enhancers were removed from the skin surface), but it caused higher DIC-DEA retention in both epidermis and dermis compared to oleic acid. The effects of oleyl alcohol and oleic acid on DIC-DEA permeation and retention in the skin were similar after a single and repeated application (4 doses every 12 h). Thus, oleyl alcohol offers several advantages over oleic acid for topical drug delivery.

Topical Drug Delivery of Concentrated Cabazitaxel in an α-Tocopherol and DMSO Solution.

Topical chemotherapy approaches are relevant for certain skin cancer treatments. This study observes that cabazitaxel (CTX), a broad-spectrum second-generation taxane cytotoxic agent, can be dissolved in α-tocopherol at high concentrations exceeding 100 mg mL-1 . 2D nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) analysis and molecular dynamics (MD) are used to study this phenomenon. The addition of 30% dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) to the α-tocopherol/CTX solution improves its working viscosity and enhances CTX permeation through human skin in vitro (over 5 µg cm-2 within 24 h), while no detectable drug permeates when CTX is dissolved in α-tocopherol alone. In a transepidermal water loss assay, the barrier impairment induced by CTX in 30% DMSO in α-tocopherol, but not in pure DMSO, is reversible 8 h after the formulation removal from the skin surface. Antitumor efficacy of the topical CTX formulation is evaluated in nude mice bearing A431 human squamous carcinoma skin cancer xenografts. With topical application of concentrated CTX solutions (75 mg mL-1 ), tumor growth is significantly suppressed compared to lower concentration groups (0, 25, or 50 mg mL-1 CTX). Taken together, these findings show that topical delivery of CTX using a DMSO and α-tocopherol solvent warrants further study as a treatment for skin malignancies.

Skin Barrier Fine Tuning through Low-Temperature Lipid Chain Transition.

The lipids in the mammalian stratum corneum (SC) adopt an unusually rigid arrangement to form a vital barrier preventing water loss and harmful environmental impacts. Just above the physiological temperature, a subset of barrier lipids undergoes a phase transition from a very tight orthorhombic to a looser hexagonal arrangement and vice versa. The purpose of this lipid transition in skin physiology is unknown. Permeability experiments on isolated human SC indicated that the transition affects the activation energy for a model compound that prefers lateral movement along lipid layers but not for water or a large polymer that would cross the SC through the pore pathway. The orthorhombic phase content of SC lipids, as determined by infrared spectroscopy, was also modulated by (de)hydration. Spontaneous rearrangement of human SC lipid monolayers into 10 nm higher multilamellar islets at 32-37 °C but not at room temperature was revealed by atomic force microscopy. Our findings add to our knowledge of fundamental skin physiology suggesting a fine temperature- and hydration-controlled switch from fluid lipids (required for lipid barrier assembly) to rigid and tightly packed lipids in the mature SC (necessary for the water and permeability barriers).

The effect of long-term cigarette smoking on selected skin barrier proteins and lipids.

The negative impact of cigarette smoking on the skin includes accelerated aging, pigmentation disorders, and impaired wound healing, but its effect on the skin barrier is not completely understood. Here, we studied the changes in selected epidermal proteins and lipids between smokers (45-66 years, smoking > 10 years, > 10 cigarettes per day) and non-smokers. Volar forearm epidermal and stratum corneum samples, obtained by suction blister and tape stripping, respectively, showed increased thickness in smokers. In the epidermis of smokers, we observed a significant upregulation of filaggrin, loricrin, and a trend of increased involucrin but no differences were found in the case of transglutaminase 1 and kallikrein-related peptidase 7, on the gene and protein levels. No significant changes were observed in the major skin barrier lipids, except for increased cholesterol sulfate in smokers. Liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry revealed shorter acyl chains in ceramides, and an increased proportion of sphingosine and 6-hydroxysphingosine ceramides (with C4 trans-double bond) over dihydrosphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramides in smokers, suggesting altered desaturase 1 activity. Smokers had more ordered lipid chains found by infrared spectroscopy. In conclusion, cigarette smoking perturbs the homeostasis of the barrier proteins and lipids even at a site not directly exposed to smoke.

The intriguing molecular dynamics of Cer[EOS] in rigid skin barrier lipid layers requires improvement of the model.

Omega-O-acyl ceramides such as 32-linoleoyloxydotriacontanoyl sphingosine (Cer[EOS]) are essential components of the lipid skin barrier, which protects our body from excessive water loss and the penetration of unwanted substances. These ceramides drive the lipid assembly to epidermal-specific long periodicity phase (LPP), structurally much different than conventional lipid bilayers. Here, we synthesized Cer[EOS] with selectively deuterated segments of the ultralong N-acyl chain or deuterated or 13C-labeled linoleic acid and studied their molecular behavior in a skin lipid model. Solid-state 2H NMR data revealed surprising molecular dynamics for the ultralong N-acyl chain of Cer[EOS] with increased isotropic motion toward the isotropic ester-bound linoleate. The sphingosine moiety of Cer[EOS] is also highly mobile at skin temperature, in stark contrast to the other LPP components, N-lignoceroyl sphingosine acyl, lignoceric acid, and cholesterol, which are predominantly rigid. The dynamics of the linoleic chain is quantitatively described by distributions of correlation times and using dynamic detector analysis. These NMR results along with neutron diffraction data suggest an LPP structure with alternating fluid (sphingosine chain-rich), rigid (acyl chain-rich), isotropic (linoleate-rich), rigid (acyl-chain rich), and fluid layers (sphingosine chain-rich). Such an arrangement of the skin barrier lipids with rigid layers separated with two different dynamic "fillings" i) agrees well with ultrastructural data, ii) satisfies the need for simultaneous rigidity (to ensure low permeability) and fluidity (to ensure elasticity, accommodate enzymes, or antimicrobial peptides), and iii) offers a straightforward way to remodel the lamellar body lipids into the final lipid barrier.

Deletion of NRF2 disturbs composition, morphology, and differentiation of the murine tail epidermis in chronological aging.

NRF2 is a master regulator of the cellular protection against oxidative damage in mammals and of multiple pathways relevant in the mammalian aging process. In the epidermis of the skin NRF2 contributes additionally to the formation of an antioxidant barrier to protect from environmental insults and is involved in the differentiation process of keratinocytes. In chronological aging of skin, the capacity for antioxidant responses and the ability to restore homeostasis after damage are impaired. Surprisingly, in absence of extrinsic stressors, NRF2 deficient mice do not show any obvious skin phenotype, not even at old age. We investigated the differences in chronological epidermal aging of wild type and NRF2-deficient mice to identify the changes in aged epidermis that may compensate for absence of this important transcriptional regulator. While both genotypes showed elevated epidermal senescence markers (increased Lysophospholipids, decreased LaminB1 expression), the aged NRF2 deficient mice displayed disturbed epidermal differentiation manifested in irregular keratin 10 and loricrin expression. The tail skin displayed less age-related epidermal thinning and a less pronounced decline in proliferating basal epidermal cells compared to the wildtype controls. The stratum corneum lipid composition also differed, as we observed elevated production of barrier protective linoleic acid (C18:2) and reduced abundance of longer chain saturated lignoceric acid (C24:0) among the stratum corneum fatty acids in the aged NRF2-deficient mice. Thus, despite epidermal differentiation being disturbed in aged NRF2-deficient animals in homeostasis, adaptations in keratinocyte proliferation and barrier lipid synthesis could explain the lack of a more severe phenotype.

Polymorphism, Nanostructures, and Barrier Properties of Ceramide-Based Lipid Films.

Ceramides belong to sphingolipids, an important group of cellular and extracellular lipids. Their physiological functions range from cell signaling to participation in the formation of barriers against water evaporation. In the skin, they are essential for the permeability barrier, together with free fatty acids and cholesterol. We examined the periodical structure and permeability of lipid films composed of ceramides (Cer; namely, N-lignoceroyl 6-hydroxysphingosine, CerNH24, and N-lignoceroyl sphingosine, CerNS24), lignoceric acid (LIG; 24:0), and cholesterol (Chol). X-ray diffraction experiments showed that the CerNH24-based samples form either a short lamellar phase (SLP, d ∼ 5.4 nm) or a medium lamellar phase (MLP, d = 10.63-10.78 nm) depending on the annealing conditions. The proposed molecular arrangement of the MLP based on extended Cer molecules also agreed with the relative neutron scattering length density profiles obtained from the neutron diffraction data. The presence of MLP increased the lipid film permeability to the lipophilic model permeant (indomethacin) relative to the CerNS24-based control samples and the samples that had the same lipid composition but formed an SLP. Thus, the arrangement of lipids in various nanostructures is responsive to external conditions during sample preparation. This polymorphic behavior directly affects the barrier properties, which could also be (patho)physiologically relevant.

Proline, hydroxyproline, and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid derivatives as highly efficient but reversible transdermal permeation enhancers.

Overcoming the skin barrier properties efficiently, temporarily, and safely for successful transdermal drug delivery remains a challenge. We synthesized three series of potential skin permeation enhancers derived from natural amino acid derivatives proline, 4-hydroxyproline, and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, which is a component of natural moisturizing factor. Permeation studies using in vitro human skin identified dodecyl prolinates with N-acetyl, propionyl, and butyryl chains (Pro2, Pro3, and Pro4, respectively) as potent enhancers for model drugs theophylline and diclofenac. The proline derivatives were generally more active than 4-hydroxyprolines and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid derivatives. Pro2-4 had acceptable in vitro toxicities on 3T3 fibroblast and HaCaT cell lines with IC50 values in tens of µM. Infrared spectroscopy using the human stratum corneum revealed that these enhancers preferentially interacted with the skin barrier lipids and decreased the overall chain order without causing lipid extraction, while their effects on the stratum corneum protein structures were negligible. The impacts of Pro3 and Pro4 on an in vitro transepidermal water loss and skin electrical impedance were fully reversible. Thus, proline derivatives Pro3 and Pro4 have an advantageous combination of high enhancing potency, low cellular toxicity, and reversible action, which is important for their potential in vivo use as the skin barrier would quickly recover after the drug/enhancer administration is terminated.

Examination of diverse iron-chelating agents for the protection of differentiated PC12 cells against oxidative injury induced by 6-hydroxydopamine and dopamine.

Labile redox-active iron ions have been implicated in various neurodegenerative disorders, including the Parkinson's disease (PD). Iron chelation has been successfully used in clinical practice to manage iron overload in diseases such as thalassemia major; however, the use of conventional iron chelators in pathological states without systemic iron overload remains at the preclinical investigative level and is complicated by the risk of adverse outcomes due to systemic iron depletion. In this study, we examined three clinically-used chelators, namely, desferrioxamine, deferiprone and deferasirox and compared them with experimental agent salicylaldehyde isonicotinoyl hydrazone (SIH) and its boronate-masked prochelator BSIH for protection of differentiated PC12 cells against the toxicity of catecholamines 6-hydroxydopamine and dopamine and their oxidation products. All the assayed chelating agents were able to significantly reduce the catecholamine toxicity in a dose-dependent manner. Whereas hydrophilic chelator desferrioxamine exerted protection only at high and clinically unachievable concentrations, deferiprone and deferasirox significantly reduced the catecholamine neurotoxicity at concentrations that are within their plasma levels following standard dosage. SIH was the most effective iron chelator to protect the cells with the lowest own toxicity of all the assayed conventional chelators. This favorable feature was even more pronounced in prochelator BSIH that does not chelate iron unless its protective group is cleaved in disease-specific oxidative stress conditions. Hence, this study demonstrated that while iron chelation may have general neuroprotective potential against catecholamine auto-oxidation and toxicity, SIH and BSIH represent promising lead molecules and warrant further studies in more complex animal models.

ω-O-Acylceramides but not ω-hydroxy ceramides are required for healthy lamellar phase architecture of skin barrier lipids.

Epidermal omega-O-acylceramides (ω-O-acylCers) are essential components of a competent skin barrier. These unusual sphingolipids with ultralong N-acyl chains contain linoleic acid esterified to the terminal hydroxyl of the N-acyl, the formation of which requires the transacylase activity of patatin-like phospholipase domain containing 1 (PNPLA1). In ichthyosis with dysfunctional PNPLA1, ω-O-acylCer levels are significantly decreased, and ω-hydroxylated Cers (ω-OHCers) accumulate. Here, we explore the role of the linoleate moiety in ω-O-acylCers in the assembly of the skin lipid barrier. Ultrastructural studies of skin samples from neonatal Pnpla1+/+ and Pnpla1-/- mice showed that the linoleate moiety in ω-O-acylCers is essential for lamellar pairing in lamellar bodies, as well as for stratum corneum lipid assembly into the long periodicity lamellar phase. To further study the molecular details of ω-O-acylCer deficiency on skin barrier lipid assembly, we built in vitro lipid models composed of major stratum corneum lipid subclasses containing either ω-O-acylCer (healthy skin model), ω-OHCer (Pnpla1-/- model), or combination of the two. X-ray diffraction, infrared spectroscopy, and permeability studies indicated that ω-OHCers could not substitute for ω-O-acylCers, although in favorable conditions, they form a medium lamellar phase with a 10.8 nm-repeat distance and permeability barrier properties similar to long periodicity lamellar phase. In the absence of ω-O-acylCers, skin lipids were prone to separation into two phases with diminished barrier properties. The models combining ω-OHCers with ω-O-acylCers indicated that accumulation of ω-OHCers does not prevent ω-O-acylCer-driven lamellar stacking. These data suggest that ω-O-acylCer supplementation may be a viable therapeutic option in patients with PNPLA1 deficiency.

Phospholipid-Based Microemulsions for Cutaneous Imiquimod Delivery.

Imiquimod (IMQ) is a potent immune response modifier with antiviral and antitumor properties. IMQ's low aqueous solubility and unsatisfactory cutaneous permeability limit its formulation into effective dosage forms. This work aimed to develop IMQ-loaded microemulsions (MEs) based on phospholipids and oleic acid to improve IMQ penetration into the epidermis. A pseudo-ternary phase diagram was constructed, and the microstructure of the formulations was examined by measuring the conductivity values. Selected MEs were characterized and studied for their ability to deliver IMQ into and through ex vivo human skin. ME1 with 1% IMQ (bicontinuous ME with Bingham rheology) delivered similar IMQ quantities to the human epidermis ex vivo as the commercial product while having a 5-fold lower IMQ dose. IMQ was not detected in the acceptor phase after the permeation experiment, suggesting a lower systemic absorption risk than the established product. Infrared spectroscopy of the stratum corneum revealed less ordered and less tightly packed lipids after ME1 application. The ME1-induced barrier disruption recovered within less than 5 h after the formulation removal, as detected by transepidermal water loss measurements. In conclusion, our findings demonstrate that phospholipid and oleic acid-based MEs could become a promising alternative for topical IMQ administration.

Cholesterol sulfate fluidizes the sterol fraction of the stratum corneum lipid phase and increases its permeability.

Desulfation of cholesterol sulfate (CholS) to cholesterol (Chol) is an important event in epidermal homeostasis and necessary for stratum corneum (SC) barrier function. The CholS/Chol ratio decreases during SC maturation but remains high in pathological conditions, such as X-linked ichthyosis, characterized by dry and scaly skin. The aim of this study was to characterize the influence of the CholS/Chol molar ratio on the structure, dynamics, and permeability of SC lipid model mixtures. We synthesized deuterated CholS and investigated lipid models with specifically deuterated components using 2H solid-state NMR spectroscopy at temperatures from 25°C to 80°C. Although the rigid acyl chains in ceramides and fatty acids remained essentially rigid upon variation of the CholS/Chol ratio, both sterols were increasingly fluidized in lipid models containing higher CholS concentrations. We also show the X-ray repeat distance of the lipid lamellar phase (105 Å) and the orthorhombic chain packing of the ceramide's acyl chains and long free fatty acids did not change upon the variation of the CholS content. However, the Chol phase separation visible in models with high Chol concentration disappeared at the 50:50 CholS/Chol ratio. This increased fluidity resulted in higher permeabilities to model markers of these SC models. These results reveal that a high CholS/Chol ratio fluidizes the sterol fraction and increases the permeability of the SC lipid phase while maintaining the lamellar lipid arrangement with an asymmetric sterol distribution.

Common Cosmetic Compounds Can Reduce Air Pollution-Induced Oxidative Stress and Pro-Inflammatory Response in the Skin.

INTRODUCTION: Constantly increasing air pollution (AP) poses a concern affecting not only our health but also our skin. A typical manifestation of the skin damage induced by AP is its premature aging, irritation, skin barrier impairment, pigmentation disorders, and development or exacerbation of various skin diseases. For these reasons, it is crucial to protect the skin from the negative effects of AP. In this study, we evaluated the ability of some compounds commonly used in dermatological or cosmetic preparations with various biological activities to reduce AP-induced skin damage. METHODS: We established a new experimental model using porcine skin explants exposed to cigarette smoke (CS) in which we determined the level of reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the stratum corneum, skin barrier lipids peroxidation, and gene expression of the pro-inflammatory cytokine interleukin 6 in the epidermis. Then, we tested several polysaccharides and their derivatives such as sodium hyaluronate (SH) of different molecular weight (MW, 1.6 MDa, 300 kDa, 15 kDa, 5 kDa), yeast glucomannan, schizophyllan, and carboxymethyl ß-glucan, then vitamin C derivative sodium ascorbyl phosphate, niacinamide, and D-panthenol for their ability to prevent CS-induced skin damage. For the evaluation and comparison of their mechanism of action, film-forming effect was determined by TEWL and gloss measurements and the antioxidant properties were assessed by DPPH assay. RESULTS: In the skin samples exposed to CS, we observed significant negative changes such as the presence of large amount of ROS in the stratum corneum, high level of skin barrier lipids peroxidation and upregulated IL6 gene expression. Pretreatment of the skin samples with all the tested substances significantly prevented CS-induced skin damage. The most effective were high MW SH probably due to its best film-forming effect and sodium ascorbyl phosphate with the best antioxidant properties. CONCLUSION: AP leads to a significant skin damage which can be effectively prevented using some conventional cosmetic and dermatological ingredients with various mechanisms of action.

Research Techniques Made Simple: Lipidomic Analysis in Skin Research.

Although lipids are crucial molecules for cell structure, metabolism, and signaling in most organs, they have additional specific functions in the skin. Lipids are required for the maintenance and regulation of the epidermal barrier, physical properties of the skin, and defense against microbes. Analysis of the lipidome-the totality of lipids-is of similar complexity to those of proteomics or other omics, with lipid structures ranging from simple, linear, to highly complex structures. In addition, the ordering and chemical modifications of lipids have consequences on their biological function, especially in the skin. Recent advances in analytic capability (usually with mass spectrometry), bioinformatic processing, and integration with other dermatological big data have allowed researchers to increasingly understand the roles of specific lipid species in skin biology. In this paper, we review the techniques used to analyze skin lipidomics and epilipidomics.

Effects of (R)- and (S)-α-Hydroxylation of Acyl Chains in Sphingosine, Dihydrosphingosine, and Phytosphingosine Ceramides on Phase Behavior and Permeability of Skin Lipid Models.

Ceramides (Cers) with α-hydroxylated acyl chains comprise about a third of all extractable skin Cers and are required for permeability barrier homeostasis. We have probed here the effects of Cer hydroxylation on their behavior in lipid models comprising the major SC lipids, Cer/free fatty acids (C 16-C 24)/cholesterol, and a minor component, cholesteryl sulfate. Namely, Cers with (R)-α-hydroxy lignoceroyl chains attached to sphingosine (Cer AS), dihydrosphingosine (Cer AdS), and phytosphingosine (Cer AP) were compared to their unnatural (S)-diastereomers and to Cers with non-hydroxylated lignoceroyl chains attached to sphingosine (Cer NS), dihydrosphingosine (Cer NdS), and phytosphingosine (Cer NP). By comparing several biophysical parameters (lamellar organization by X-ray diffraction, chain order, lateral packing, phase transitions, and lipid mixing by infrared spectroscopy using deuterated lipids) and the permeabilities of these models (water loss and two permeability markers), we conclude that there is no general or common consequence of Cer α-hydroxylation. Instead, we found a rich mix of effects, highly dependent on the sphingoid base chain, configuration at the α-carbon, and permeability marker used. We found that the model membranes with unnatural Cer (S)-AS have fewer orthorhombically packed lipid chains than those based on the (R)-diastereomer. In addition, physiological (R)-configuration decreases the permeability of membranes, with Cer (R)-AdS to theophylline, and increases the lipid chain order in model systems with natural Cer (R)-AP. Thus, each Cer subclass makes a distinct contribution to the structural organization and function of the skin lipid barrier.